There lies an inherent architecture in the making of the chola. The floor plan of the tunic’s pattern is drafted directly on a fabric base, employing ingenious geometry, which leads to no wastage of cloth. The foundation is built upon layer by layer of cotton and silk. Cotton and polyester threads are used to baste and affix a layer to another. The geometric and floral embroidery with resham thread, zari thread and mirrors, seem decorative at first glance. But the embroidery has a dual purpose. The motifs and techniques are part of an oral and vocational tradition that has been passed down through generations of women. The inherent geometric patterns of the embroidered body of the chola, along with the delicate zari hand-embroidered and the crocheted strips, provide strength to the construction of the garment. They reinforce and add longevity to the tunic for the wearer to enjoy it way past beyond wash cycles.
Date 23.09.2024