Designer Somya Goyal grew up observing her father in the garment industry and developed a distinctive understanding of how garments are put together — from the front pocket placement to how the shirt inside the collar has to be placed. Comprehension of the perfect methodology, staying within the boundaries and centring everything around sales, made the young designer realise not only her interest in the field but also the key lesson of not chasing perfection. A young Somya knew from the very beginning that it was imperative for her to enable more compassion and emotion in designs than just chase impeccability. She adds, ‘I wanted to enjoy the process of creation, looking at it from a larger perspective, and giving life to a garment. Extending myself and my art to more than just the garment is something I have learned over the years.’
The young designer established her eponymous label in 2019, post a degree from Pearl Academy. She soon followed it up with a course in styling and marketing from Central Saint Martins and internships with a plethora of homegrown brands. We’re in conversation with the designer about her label, its journey and more.
What motivated you to start your own label and what is it that the label stands for?
I had always been quiet, less expressive than kids my age. Very rarely did I share my opinions during school years. Hence, I think I wanted to create a space where I do and perceive everything with an approach that was exclusively mine. And I wanted to channelise this through design and clothes, borrowing from my childhood experiences.
The label stands for liberating as well as contrasting, that which is commonly seen and easily expected. Our creations are free in terms of materials and placements. The textures and details are the means and the backbone of our label. I wanted to create a space wherein I can bring abstract things and emotions that are often ignored into the creative process. There’s a certain sense of liberty when you can express who you are within through physical objects you create. And we like to believe that our wearers get the same liberty to present themselves through our clothes.
What/who is it that keeps you motivated at a time like this? Also where do you draw inspiration from?
I think the people around me keep me motivated along with my passion to sustain my voice amongst so many voices. The urge to calm down the anonymous thoughts and the dilemmas I come across on a daily basis, contemplations or even certain personality traits which catch my attention, become the starting point of my collections. I find this place to sensitise my expressions. Before I started working on my last collection, I was chatting with a friend about how each movement, irrespective of the relation or purpose, affects every cell present or not present in that space. Every part is more than just the sum of its parts, hence we called the collection Beyond , where elements and 3D details like the PVC cord, our signature texture, emerging pockets, and hand-embroidered cotton cord lines, signify what lies beyond the surface.
Take us through your creative process.
There is no singular calculative process we follow when working on a collection. The origin of our collections is mostly an intangible thought, idea or emotion, around which I try to build a story by having constant discussions with people from different walks of life, who share their perspective with me, which then becomes a building block for the concept. The concept keeps growing with our explorations and samples, and I am always open to add more to the story till the day of launch. We try and keep it as candid and true to who we are as possible.
What do you think about the current moment in fashion and do you think we’re headed in the right direction to be able to cultivate a sustainable future?
I think as individuals, every organisation is trying to reverse their actions in so many ways. From high street brands adding a garment recycling plant in their showroom to labels using fibres which are extracted from environmental and plant waste. More than fashion being fast, time itself is changing the expectations faster. I believe that as creatives with a voice, we should focus on staying true to the ethos of what we do as a brand, how we do it, and turn to who and what matters for the brand.
Lastly, how has pandemic affected the label and what’s coming up next?
Three months after the launch of our label the pandemic hit and the strategies and ongoing collaborations were paused. We as a label took some time to read the situation and re-strategise our operations and future collaborations. The digital world overtook the space where we could touch, feel and experience things. Being a new label, I personally never imagined it to be introduced only digitally to our audience but it was the only means left for us. The coming months seem to be opening up some other means of presenting our label so we can connect to our present audience better and also reach out to more people.
We are planning to launch a line of exclusive pieces (surprise launch/mid collections launch). This is something that was on the cards for us since our first collection launch. It would consist of separates instead of full ensembles, which stands very true to our DNA — wearable art, where we are fully exploring the PVC texture. We focus on responsible construction of our garments as each piece is meant to be worn for years and even passed on to next generations. We are also planning to collaborate with a music artist for this launch. At the moment we are also exploring a new visual identity for the label that resonates better with us. It is all a work in progress and that’s how we like to push our limits all the time.
Text Unnati Saini
Date 29-01-2021