I am so fond of telling everyone, there is more to Uttaranchal than Rishikesh and Haridwar. There is this beautiful area of Kumaon. The land of slow travel, humble and hardworking people with hearts of gold and a shyness that comes from their own sense of being complete in their world. Kumaon is the resting place for the soul of the seeker, the heart of the artist, pinpointed with ancient holy sites, alive with nature and home to an increasingly vital organic movement.
Roads are made for travellers in this area, distances are measured in the time it should take to each and anyway, no one is in a hurry. The sun will rise and set as it always does, grass will grow and vegetables will be plucked, eventually, we all get to where we are meant to be. Today for me, it is an enchanting mountain retreat, The Kumaon where we were welcomed by the most polite people: A dream resort nestled on a ridge in the shadow of the sacred Nanda Devi Range. Set against a backdrop of gently rolling hills, this exquisite property features ten charming chalets arranged in pairs across five distinct structures. Each chalet boasts its private terrace, providing stunning views of the majestic Great Himalayan range. The main building serves as a hub of relaxation and leisure, featuring a cozy lounge, a serene spa, a well-stocked library, and a cantilevered dining area suspended over the valley below.
As we delve deeper into this enchanting retreat, we'll explore the culinary delights that showcase the region's flavours, meet the knowledgeable in-house naturalists who guide you through the stunning landscapes and hidden treasures, and discover the unique features that make The Kumaon a truly peaceful destination.
The Kumaoni region is a culinary treasure, celebrated for its vibrant flavours and seasonal produce. At The Kumaon, guests experience authentic local cuisine that showcases dishes like Aloo ke Gutke and Bhatt ki Chudkani, crafted from fresh, organic ingredients sourced from nearby farms. This hotel not only offers a taste of Kumaon's heritage but also champions the organic movement, supporting local farmers and sustainable practices. Each meal is a celebration of the land, prepared with care and dedication, encouraging visitors to connect with the region's rich agricultural traditions while enjoying the wholesome bounty that nature has to offer.
This field of dreams has such an energy that if you sit in the silence you can hear the whisper of the plants who are there to heal and teach. I experienced that on a short excursion to an ancient and important temple dedicated to the Goddess Durga, the Kasar Devi Temple that finds mention in India’s ancient texts. Its magnetism and peaceful surroundings have attracted the most eclectic of travellers, comprising mystics, scholars, poets and artists alike, including personalities such as Swami Vivekananda, DH Lawrence, Earl Brewster, Bob Dylan, Cat Stevens and Robert Thurman, to name just a few. I was guided on foot by the in-house naturalist, Nanda from the hotel and back. The trek to Kasar Devi Temple was a little challenging, with narrow and steep pathways that demanded our full attention. Each careful step brought us closer to our destination as we navigated through a stunning forest of towering pine and oak trees. Occasionally, we encountered shepherds guiding their flocks. As we walked, the world around us fell silent, leaving only the sound of my own breath and the satisfying crunch of leaves beneath my feet, creating a meditative rhythm that connected me deeply with nature. We spent some time sitting and meditating at the temple, the effect of which can move things within you. You can choose from other excursions that they offer depending on the level of difficulty.
We leveraged being miles away from the light pollution and soaking in the stunning views of the valley, which was blanketed by a net of stars. We were booked for a 2-hour session in the guidance of an astronomical expert, the founder of Nakshatra. We waited for the sky to become pitch dark before we began our journey from one planet to another, exploring the moon and several stars along the way. It was magical to observe objects billions of light-years away with just a blink of the eye. For a novice, it was an invigorating experience to grasp the scale of the universe. It really makes you feel small, like a tiny molecule in this vast cosmos.
On our last day, we took a stroll through the neighboring village of The Kumaon, where we were introduced to Kumaoni art and learned about the residents' way of life. The walk was enchanting, culminating in a breathtaking view of the sunset, which marked the conclusion of my stay at The Kumaon. We enjoyed coffee and freshly baked sweet treats from the kitchen in a space where the silence felt healing.
Words Hansika Lohani
Date 10.01.2025