Mrinmai Arun is a South Indian jewellery designer whose creations seamlessly blend traditional cultural influences with modern aesthetics. Growing up in Chennai, India, she was surrounded by the rich heritage of jewellery and adornment, which sparked her passion for design. Her journey into jewellery began with an early love for fashion and a later introduction to sculpture, where she discovered the endless possibilities of working with metal and materials. Drawing inspiration from nature, culture, and her heritage, Mrinmai’s designs reflect a deep reverence for Indian traditions, while incorporating innovative, modular elements that allow her pieces to evolve and transform over time. As a diasporic designer, she aims to challenge stereotypes, celebrating her Indian roots through contemporary jewellery that adds a sense of fun and celebration to global fashion.
Can you share what initially sparked your interest in jewellery and how your South Indian heritage has influenced your designs?
I have loved fashion and making things for as long as I can remember. Growing up in Chennai, India, I’ve always been surrounded by adornment and jewellery. Jewellery plays a significant role in our culture, which has heavily informed my chosen field of design. I've always been aware that fashion is what I wanted to pursue; however, my initial introduction to sculpture at the age of 15 exposed me to the endless possibilities working with metal and various materials provided. I am forever in awe of the beauty, tradition,and purpose behind Indian culture, and consequently its jewellery. Jewellery has no boundaries, and I am particularly fascinated by its ability to transform the human body into anything in our imagination.
My design process can be broken into three phases. The first phase is an organic, subconscious phase, where I am inspired by my surroundings; nature, culture and other designers/artists. I can never foreshadow the exact point to which my ideas will lead me.I then try to translate these concepts into designs by experimenting with materials, and 3D objects that I have collected. My next phase is the systematic testing phase, where I thoughtfully test my ideas, while continuing to research and come up with creative solutions for any problems that arise. This helps me push my potential, bring my designs to life and implement a design that is practically wearable. And finally once I finish a project, it never really ends there for me, I constantly look to develop the idea, to either improve it or use that as a foundation to feed into a subsequent project.
One of the standout features of your collection is its modularity. Why did you choose to create pieces that can evolve and transform?
My approach to sustainability is to create work which has a dual purpose. When a piece’s role as jewellery has come to an end, it can continue to be used as objet d'art. 'Finished is a trap,' In reincarnation, when someone dies, an aspect of them continues to exist in one or more successive lifelines. I want to implement a similar ideation in my jewellery, where I produce pieces that have no final state and live through their modular design. When someone believes that a particular piece is ready to be replaced or is outdated, they have the option to alter or style the design differently due to its modularity. This can be done by attaching it to other pieces in the collection or wearing it as a completely different jewellery typology, allowing the pieces to transform whilst the 'soul' of the design continues to exist.
The core of my designs take influence from symbols, ideations, beliefs, visuals from my culture and natural forms. I take those elements and concepts to create unique pieces with a modern and futuristic twist. I think the key to balancing the two for me is staying true to my identity, which is a South Indian woman in the 21st century.
As a diasporic designer, how do you see the role of South Asian influences in global fashion, and what do you hope to contribute to this growing movement of transformative South Asian jewellery brands?
Whilst I was growing up in Chennai, there were a very limited number of designers from my culture who had their work involved in Western media. Whenever I did come across such work, it was generally stereotyped towards Indian culture. I want to portray Indian culture through my eyes with a modern and creative twist. Through my work, I want to communicate my love for my Indian heritage and celebrate the history of the art and crafts that it entails. I want my pieces to bring a sense of fun, love, and celebration into people's lives. Today I do see a growing movement of transformative South Asian jewellery brands like never before and it makes me so proud. I can’t wait to see what the future holds for us.
Words Paridhi Badgotri
Date 12.11.2024