With silhouettes that bring the past into modern form, Studio Pinanki is committed to creating versatile, size-inclusive pieces that honor heritage textiles while embracing contemporary aesthetics. Pinanki’s journey took her from the bustling streets of Mumbai to the serene environment of Auroville, where she immersed herself in sustainable fashion practices. Now based in London, she discusses how her studies and experiences have influenced her designs, particularly her latest collection, The Mystiques.
Pinanki
IMPACT OF DIFFERENT CITIES
Growing up in Mumbai, a cosmopolitan city, I was exposed to a fusion of Indian cultures, but never in their purest forms. This influenced me to balance practicality for the modern woman with subtle cultural expressions in clothing. I had a newfound appreciation for India’s diverse heritage when I moved to Jaipur for my undergrad, where I saw the depth and richness of regional styles. I grew up romanticising the hustling 9-9 work culture of Mumbai so working in a ‘slow-fashion’ brand in Auroville was a challenge. I encountered a thoughtful approach to design, where every fabric scrap was carefully pre-served and each piece was made with intention. Moving to London to pursue my MA in Fashion at Central Saint Martins felt like a natural progression. The support and opportunities here for emerging talent convinced me that London was the right place to establish my studio.
PRE-COLONIAL INSPIRATIONS
I love how women draped a sari in a hundred different ways to suit their profession in the earlier times. This versatility is a core design philosophy for us: our garments require minimal cutting and are crafted to be size-free, filling a gap in the market for flattering, adaptable, size-inclusive clothing. But like the sari, our pieces are designed to drape naturally, they are flowing and ballooning and hug the curves wherever they need to. They can go from boardroom meetings to after-work cocktails depending on how you style them. That’s how they last longer and can be passed down to generations, just like a sari.
THE MYSTIQUES
Our SS25 collection - The Mystiques, is about reconnecting with history to shape a sustainable future. Drawing on South Asia’s rich archives, we found that sustainability was the norm. For SS25, we partnered with local fabric suppliers to repurpose deadstock, creating limited-edition pieces that honour the craftsmanship and reduce waste. Every scrap of fabric is thoughtfully pre-served in our studio and later transformed into unique trims, waist belts, and shoulder straps, adding character to each piece. We’ve taken care to establish our sustainable foundations, from recyclable, biodegradable packaging to offering lifetime repair and alterations for every purchase. One highlight in this collection is our homage to Muslin, a pure cotton, raw and unbleached fabric with deep roots in South Asian heritage and a pivotal role in the evolution of Western fashion. Muslin’s enduring strength and elegance make it symbolic of our vision, which aims to honour heritage textiles. We’re working to redefine narratives around fashion, demonstrating that it is possible to make fashion with thought and care.
INSPIRATION FROM THE IMAGERY OF DESERT
The gloomy climate and vitamin D deficiency of England made me reminisce about the desert summer of India. One of my friends jokingly said ‘Can you make something for us who don’t need a tan but still protects from heat and still looks cool and is not floral print?’ I thought that was funny but something to tap into. This led me to explore the vibrant, rich cultures of Banjara and Bedouin. Their survival stories, nomadic rituals, and mystical folklore are so captivating. Inspired by their resilience, I created silhouettes that billow like desert dunes, using signature pleating to shape garments with minimal waste. The draped elements resemble traditional dupattas, and a cowl neck can transform into a veil-like hood. The colourful braids are like memorabilia that nomads collected on their journeys. Some are woven with ghungaroos / brass bells that make music as the wearer moves.
SOURCING MATERIAL
Having worked with handloom weaves in India, I got attached to the fluidity of lightweight jersey fabrics when I moved to London. This contrast between traditional textiles and contemporary jerseys allows for a distinct aesthetic. The fluid stretch of a jersey is ideal for draping while the texture of a pleated Muslin and raw Silk add subtle structure to everyday pieces. The process of sourcing materials is one of the favourite aspects—there’s an abundance of South Asian textiles in charity shops across London. We thoughtfully repurpose these textiles, using them as the lining of a jacket or waistband, ensuring each piece is unique. Although time-consuming, this process results in pieces that are as sustainable as they are distinctively beautiful.
Words Paridhi Badgotri
Photography Keerthana Kunnath