A storied space steeped in history and quiet grandeur, Tilfi has found a new home in Ballard Estate in Bombay. Recently, we spent an evening with the Tilfi Collective, which turned into a lesson in history and heritage craft. We explored the historic quarter on a guided tour with Khaki Tours before gathering at Tilfi’s new flagship store—an area dedicated to showcasing the finest expressions of Indian craftsmanship. This experience allowed us to delve into Tilfi’s vision through immersive installations and thoughtful discussions at the store.
The new space embodies a piece of Banaras, brought to life in this vibrant city—a quiet homage to Banaras itself. One could truly sense Tilfi’s spirit surrounding us. We asked the founders how they translated that feeling, ‘It was never about replication but translation, carrying forward our house codes while adapting them to a vast 5,500 sq ft open-plan space. We wanted to craft an environment that doesn’t just house craft but engages in a dialogue with it, embodying both legacy and evolution. At the store, the sandstone tones recall the weathered ghats, water channels trace the gentle ripples of the Ganges, and a delicate leaf motif, drawn from Banarasi architecture, finds contemporary expression. Raised platforms evoke the stepped landings of Kashi’s riverbanks, layering the space with depth and meaning,’ they explained.
During our visit to the store, Team Tilfi provided an experience that sparked thought and initiated conversations, rather than simply promoting it as a retail destination. ‘We wanted to invite people to see Banarasi craftsmanship in new ways, engage with its possibilities beyond tradition, and experience the quiet magnificence of a heritage that continues to evolve.’
Choosing the Vakils House building at Ballard Estate was a deliberate decision by Team Tilfi, much like the weaves they create. ‘Our Mumbai home, Vakils House in Ballard Estate, is steeped in history— a building that has witnessed the evolution of print in India, the transformation of a nation, and the enduring spirit of innovation. It is a fitting backdrop for our journey. An embodiment of the same spirit of innovation that once flourished within these walls, Tilfi finds its own expression here—an ode to the shared pursuit of artistry and excellence. Ballard Estate itself, with its architectural grandeur and legacy of commerce, echoes Tilfi’s own ethos—rooted in tradition yet constantly evolving. Our presence here is not just about bringing Banaras to Mumbai; it is about engaging with the layered history of the city and finding resonance in its spirit. Tilfi’s presence in Mumbai is an extension of its inheritance, a sharing of mastery that seeks not only to adorn but to remember—to honour the past while shaping the present, with an unwavering commitment to beauty that endures.’
When we say that the store is an experience, we truly mean it. The metal repousse art displayed on the walls offers a unique blend of art and fashion within the same space. This collective is known for continuously pushing the boundaries of craftsmanship. They create a range of works, from metal repousse pieces to transforming textiles into Western silhouettes, and even constructing a large handwoven artwork for Parliament. ‘We’re constantly inspired by the depth of craft that surrounds us. Banaras is not static—it’s layered, alive, and full of stories still waiting to be told. What drives us is curiosity—the desire to ask, what more can this craft do? How can it speak to the world today, in forms that feel both familiar and surprising? Whether it’s shaping brass sheets by hand using repoussé, or transforming our handwoven textiles into western silhouette, our intent is the same: to honour the integrity of the craft while gently stretching its possibilities. As for what’s next—we’re continuing to explore the space between art and clothing, object and heirloom, tradition and reimagination. We’re working on a few intimate projects around collectible metal pieces that explore light and form, textile-led artworks, and quiet experiments that place Banarasi weaving in dialogue with other fine Indian crafts. But at our core, we still move slowly. For us, the journey is about creating pieces that last, that carry meaning, and that deepen the legacy of craft in quiet but enduring ways.’
There is ongoing discussion about sustainability in fashion, contrasting sharply with the prevailing trend of fast fashion. The Tilfi collective has consistently emphasized a value-based narrative. They have consciously preserved heritage while elevating the expression of Indian artistry and luxury. This foundation is built on mastery of technique, the use of superior materials, and the understated sophistication of heritage textiles. ‘Running a value-driven label in an industry dominated by fast fashion is a series of difficult choices, but for us, it was never about compromise or charity—it is simply how we believe business should be done. Our values are embedded in our model, and while the rewards come slowly, they are lasting. We are both optimists and realists, always taking a long-term view—just as our craft demands patience, so does building something enduring. We absorb significant financial risks, from developing and commissioning designs to ensuring our weavers have continuous work, regardless of a piece’s commercial success or failure. Not every design succeeds, iterations can take years, and true patronage is built over time. There is also an inherent trade-off between scale and quality. We made our choice early on—to work only with the finest artisans who share our commitment to excellence, to operate independently across the value chain, and to reject shortcuts like mass production or discounting. These are slow, deliberate routes, but they ensure that what we create is truly meaningful. For us, sustainability isn’t just a talking point; it is measured in depth, scale, and time. It is about making an impact that lasts—not just for today, but for generations to come.’
Words Hansika Lohani
28.03.2025
