When you hear Jim Corbett, the image that often comes up in one’s mind is of a tiger or a safari. I headed towards the national park nestled on the outskirts of Uttarakhand’s Ramnagar with those same expectations. Yet, somewhere I also wanted to discover this part of the state beyond the tourist attractions. I am one of those people who think they can grasp the culture of a region by staying in a resort for two days—but alas, one can only try.
A five-hour journey from Delhi landed me in India’s first voco, an IHG hotel brand, which boasts a global presence in around twenty-five countries and counting, with a focus on local experiences. The resort, adorned in shades of blue and yellow, features cottages lining the borders of expansive gardens and the sounds of birds. Interestingly, voco also takes inspiration from birds in its design elements that includes three hallmarks—the talkative finch, the solitary owl and the social flamingo. I was welcomed with lively tunes of bagpipers, a glass of buransh sharbat, a rejuvenating drink made from flowers found in Himalayas, and bal mithai, a local chocolate-fudge-like sweet topped with white sugar balls. My quest for this cultural retreat had already begun.
As I drew back the curtains of my room, I was greeted by the little stream of Kosi river with mules strolling on the banks—a breathtaking sight. After a quick check-in, I went to the open Kosi deck of the resort, where they offer the lodgers to witness the magic of sun in a collaboration with a stargazing observatory, Astrostops. Through an advanced telescope that blocks 99% of the rays from the sun, I was able to see the sun in all its glory. Astronomer Kuldeep shared interesting facts with me about the solar powers, while we sipped ginger coolers.
Later the afternoon was spent wandering in the green pathways of the resort alongside the river, a much-needed moment to pause and question life in the new year. The evening was followed by a prayer ceremony to pay homage to the river, considered holy by the locals, featuring in their folklores. The Kosi river, which forms the Eastern boundary of the national park, is also an essential source of water for wildlife in Corbett, preserving natural habitats.
I was then invited to join the Kumaoni folk dance night held at the resort’s central lawn. A group of men and women, dressed in vibrant blue, orange and yellow, performed the traditional Chholiya dance. I had the pleasure of joining them in the circle, though I quickly realized I was hopelessly out of sync with the grace of their movements. Between dances, the performers also shared Kumaoni tales of local fruits and birds. One of the most poignant stories they told was about the fruit of kafal (bayberry) and the bird, kafaiya (magpie). In the tale, a young girl is entrusted with the responsibility of caring for the bayberries while her mother goes out to work. When the mother returns, she notices fewer bayberries and accuses her daughter of eating them, beating her on the head in anger. Tragically, the girl dies from the blow. The girl is believed to be reincarnated in the form of the magpie and pays a visit to the region every year in the first month of Hindu calendar, chait, as a reminder of the girl’s innocent spirit. These cultural performances becomes a way for the locals to preserve their folktales that were passed down many generations and are now at the risk of being forgotten.
Along with these performances, I was served traditional Kumaoni dinner made by the local women chefs, Tanu Rawat and Jameela. It included Aaloo ke gutke (potato stir fry), pahadi raita, made of curd, cucumber, mustard seeds, green chilies, dal bhat (black soybean lentil soup) along with Madua chapatti, made from finger millet. Two types of dessert were also served—laapsi (wheat pudding) and jhangore ki kheer, a dessert made with barnyard millet and milk. The local food was not only comforting but packed with nutrients that left both my body and tummy feeling content. While the dishes were delightful, it was the drinks that impressed me—starting with Kumaon & I, which was a provincial dry Gin that celebrates the unique terroir and rich flavours of the region. It offered the essence of a classic gin without the sharp bitterness, making me a convert to the spirit. Ending the night with a shot of Bandarful, an artisanal cold-brew coffee liqueur made in the region. It turned out to be the best coffee liqueur I ever had—smooth and rich.
Spa, safari and stargazing was lined up for next day. After the signature tattva therapy experience at voco, I felt light and rejuvenated as if my body had been awakened and powered with a newfound energy. Ready for the safari ahead, the jeep arrived to take me on a one-hour drive to the dense jungle. One goes to safari in the anticipation of spotting a tiger but what I found more special was the experience of life unfolding in the jungle—accompanied by the cold whispers of trees and lakes mingling with a bunch beautiful spotted deers, who are playing with black monkeys, while turtles basked alongside Siberian cranes—all living in harmony with each other.
The safari guide also shared the fascinating history behind the national park’s name with me. Jim Corbett, born in 1875 in the nearby town of Nainital, was a British hunter turned conservationist. As Corbett traveled and hunted the man-eater tigers responsible for killing thousands of locals, he also sought to understand the nature of these creatures. He recognised that they were not aggressive by nature but were driven to attack humans due to factors like old age, injury or loss of natural prey. This insight led him to create protected parks where wildlife and natural habitats can be conserved. Leading the conservation movement in India, he established this first national park of the country that was later renamed in his honour.
After the jungle ride, I caught up with Kuldeep again for a stargazing session that lasted for more than an hour. Through the telescope, I saw the moon with its craters, Saturn with its ring, Jupiter with its stripes and moving glimpses of Mars and Venus. I also gazed at distant galaxies and stars, including Proxima Centauri, Betelgeuse, Dhruv-tara, along with various constellations. We discussed everything from astrology, astronomy, it’s relation with Kumbh Mela, effects of light pollution and other planetary wonders with a bowl of maggi and tea. One of revelations that struck me in the session was that whatever we see in the sky is past as most of the celestial bodies are many light years away. For example, it’s possible that Betelgeuse, one of the farthest stars from Earth might have exploded and no longer exists, yet we are able to see it now because its light has taken 500 years to reach us. As I gasped over the mystery of it all, the universe pointed out my insignificance under its scale. I ended the night with dinner with a delicious Thai meal, negroni and acoustic music alongside the Kosi river at the Kosi Bar & Kitchen.
On the third day when it was the time to go back to breathing the polluted air of Delhi, I learned that if we walk a little beyond the stones, there’s bigger stream of Kosi river to witness. It was after a kilometre that I witnessed the huge crystal clear flow of Kosi while basking in the sun and my toes in the water, soaking in the insignificance of mine.
Words Paridhi Badgotri
Date 21.02.2025