A significant part of India's history is shaped by the Mughals, whose opulence, extravagant lifestyle, and remarkable architecture are unparalleled. They dominated much of North India, attracting tourists from around the world even hundreds of years later. In contrast, in the South, Tamil Nadu's Chettinad remains relatively unknown, even within India. Its once-magnificent mansions now lie in ruins, serving as remnants of the power and wealth of the Nattukottai Chettiar community.
Once such heritage home invites you with a different feeling, where time is in no hurry to pass. Not a single clock around. Or even a calendar. This felt like a favourite aunt’s ancestral home—The Lotus Palace, part of Apeejay Surrendra Park Group of Hotels.
As I stood at the entrance door, the eye travelled right through the spine of the property with doors leading to more doors in a straight uninterrupted line, giving tantalising glimpses of the riches within. Grand verandahs began and ended the journey. The layout was like a well-composed song with transitions and pauses that lead to new stanzas. if the pictures looked awesome, then the actual house took my breath away.
The entire place was filled with beauty, starting from the tall teak entrance and the large, sturdy door. On either side, there were wide, plain benches that offered comfort with their generous dimensions. As I stepped inside the main door, a cool darkness enveloped me; it was peaceful and quiet. I then ventured out into the courtyard, where dark teak pillars lined the verandah. Colorful windows let in filtered light, creating a perfect scene.
This hotel is actually a converted house, and one of its verandahs has been transformed into a restaurant called 86 Pillars. As you stand on the edge of the verandah that leads to the restaurant, you will notice two courtyards on either side, adorned with large, lush green plants that enhance the atmosphere. The walls feature authentic stained glass panels influenced by Raja Ravi Verma, each depicting unique scenes from the Ramayana. The food at 86 Pillars is rich in flavors and spices, characteristic of Chettinad cuisine. If you've tried Chettinad chicken, you know what I mean. We ordered the Rajavirindu, which translates to "Meal Fit for Kings," and it certainly lives up to its name. Be prepared for a dining experience like no other—a massive banana leaf served as a plate, overflowing with a buffet of dishes. You’ll find curd rice, kootu, rasam, cauliflower 65, mushroom pepper, and, of course, dosai and sambar. The meal was delightful and incredibly filling, so I wouldn't recommend engaging in any activities afterward!
86 Pillars Restaurant at The Lotus Palace
Rajavirindu Thaali at 86 Pillars
In contrast to the traditional setting of 86 Pillars, the next verandah offers a more modern atmosphere featuring a stylish bar. It boasts a palette of soft pale grey tones and rattan furniture, accented by delicate lotus motifs on the floor and contemporary light fixtures.
The bar, named 1795 after the year the Palace was reportedly constructed, presents a selection of handcrafted cocktails, although we couldn't try them as they are still waiting to obtain their liquor license. While they do offer some global dishes, I believe the chef truly shines when it comes to authentic South Indian cuisine. We enjoyed the thali for lunch for two consecutive days!
The big French doors of the bar lead you to the Park’s signature poolside bar lounge, Aqua. They have shaded pergolas and sunbeds to sit with a book and unwind with nothing but birdsong to give you company.
The Red Room right above the reception came as a delightful surprise with its Burma-inspired collectables and furniture. It also leads to the Library which is an alley with massive windows and green chandeliers. Slatted windows allow a peak into the village road and its inhabitants.
The family that once lived at this property had come down to the village at the same time as my visit. For the family, the decision to first restore the house and then turn it into a hotel experience was driven by the desire to share a unique culture. So visitors are sensitised to local history through interactions with cotton weavers and visits to old temples, apart from exposure to local arts, crafts and more. Their home and the one that they leased to the Park Group of Hotels have a lineage dating back more than almost 300 years. This family opened their homes like many other third-generation kids to people passing by. Their way of life today is almost extinct, having moved to bigger cities. You can see the life they left behind; of strong connections and emotional ties.
One of the highlights of visiting the town known as the "town of palaces" is exploring the mansion trail through Kanadukathan, Athangudi, and Karaikudi. This journey takes you through a dozen villas, each in varying states of disrepair but each with a unique history and character. We had the pleasure of having a guide named Kavita from a nearby village, who made a significant impression on me with her confidence and the stories she shared. She had met people from various parts of the country, which broadened her perspective on life's possibilities.
Other activities worth exploring include a visit to the antique market and a tile factory renowned for producing the beautiful tiles that the region is famous for. Additionally, the art of cotton saree making continues to sustain the livelihoods of the local villagers.
The forgotten mansions of Chettinad are gradually being revived, thanks to the efforts of local advocates. With a simple goal of preserving the Chettiar legacy, these champions demonstrate immense grit and determination.
Words Hansika Lohani
Date 13.03.2025
