Bhaskar Menon is the founder of Mala Akbari, a chain of historical Indian concept restaurants in Gurgaon and Delhi. He opened his first restaurant in 2016, a year after graduating from Les Roches, Switzerland. Menon is passionate about the interplay between food, storytelling, and history - his unique concept restaurant combines the three artfully. This young entrepreneur has branched out into three different restaurants, a fast food chain called Ma La (inspired by the streets of Chengdu) and a French cafe called Cuppa Kaapi.
Menon tells us more about the concept behind Mala Akbari and the role of storytelling and aesthetics in gastronomy.
UNIQUE CULINARY EXPERIENCE
Mala Akbari is quite unlike the traditional Indian restaurants that one has grown used to in Delhi and Gurgaon. Its incredibly exclusive menu allows each dish to tell a unique story. Their recipes blend the historical with the modern to create a hybrid experience that transcends modern culinary ventures. “We even use traditional Ayurvedic recipes to add an element of health and tradition to the dish. We aim to transform the notion of India as a land of ‘chili over-spiced food’ to a land of endless spices, rich in culture, flavor, and lore” explains Menon.
CONCEPTUALIZATION AND ROOTS
The restaurant is at its essence, a historical food concept that encapsulates the concepts of pre-Colombian enhanced cuisine, i.e., food before chilies, potatoes, tomatoes, etc. came to India. Menon explains “We feature actual recipes from texts like the Nimatnama, and Manasollasa and utilize ingredients like pippali, sugar, turmeric, and many more that are native to India. We make our food and drinks around history! ”
AESTHETICS, DESIGN AND SUBVERTING STEREOTYPES
When one walks into Mala Akbari, one is instantly overwhelmed by the carefully curated decor and aesthetics. The stone carved engraving on their bar catches one's eye, as they are from different parts of the country, each stone a unique story within itself. There are 23 paintings by Vedant Singh, a budding young artist whose work combines science, historical Indian art, and food history. Menon emphasizes that the restaurant seeks to steer clear of common stereotypes associated with Indian culture; “We also want to stay away from the dominance that the North and South of India have traditionally when portraying Indian culture and give equal credence to North Eastern and Western Indian culture also which are generally not given equal importance.” The music played is a combination of Indo-Western instrumental in order to create a dynamic atmosphere that quells stereotypical notions about Indian culture and music.
“BECOME A CHAPTER OF 8000 YEARS OF HISTORY”
Mala Akbari prides itself on its authenticity and respect for ancient Indian recipes and customs. Every dish has a complete flavor profile and is built on a foundation of respect for the rules from the Vedas and the preparation styles outlined in traditional shastras. “All our recipes are sourced from scriptures and ancient texts like the Nimtanama, Manasolassa, Charaka Samhita, Mahabharat, Ain-i-Akbari, Supa Shatra, Ibn Battuta; writings and recipes from the records of the East India Company” explains Menon. Their official motto is ‘Become a Chapter of 8000 Years of History’, inviting customers and enthusiasts to partake in both gastronomical delicacies as well as a winding journey through ancient Indian history.
MALA BAR AND MAURYAN COCKTAILS
The official Mala Akbari bar hosts a colorful array of cocktails inspired by historical Indian texts. The recipes are drawn from the Arthastra and the Maruan Empire and the alcohol is made from traditional ingredients as per a method invented in India over 3000 years ago. “Historically as liquor was made at home for private consumption, we have made our cocktails in the same way by using ingredients that are native to India like spices and homemade Indian syrups. Our future goal is to make our own spirits and wine once we acquire the proper approvals from the excise department” concludes Menon with a flourish.
Words Aliya Anand
Date 06.08.2024