Visit Sri Lanka. It is a country worth falling in love with. As a novice traveller, I embarked on a journey through four towns in Sri Lanka, covering 700 kilometres in just ten days to experience the country’s diverse beauty. I travelled to Sri Lanka for my birthday, enjoying a week of solo exploration, and I must say it was an incredible experience. Sri Lanka is a gorgeous island replete with stunning natural beauty, vibrant people and remarkable gas- tronomic delights. The best part, however, is that you don’t have to spend a fortune to vacation here. For a budget conscious traveller looking to get lost in the midst of the sun and the sand, mountains and forests, Sri Lanka should be an ideal getaway.
PERFECT WELCOME
I doubt if there is a better way to welcome travellers who’ve traversed miles in their car or plane than serving them coconut water with a hot towelette. This was just a perfect memory at Sundara by Mosvold in Balapitya. After landing in Colombo, I drove to this beautiful property that is right by the ocean on the Southwestern coast of the island. It is an eight-room, luxury villa by homegrown Sri Lankan chain, Mosvold Boutique Hotels. The villas are accentuated with themes that reflect the signature style of the island’s tropical minimalism. Staying at Sundara means you’re in excellent hands, particularly with the concierge, Shaan. He went above and beyond to ensure I had a wonderful experience, guiding me around and sharing captivating stories about the island.
While in Balapitiya, I explored the Mangrove jungles of the magnificent Madu River. Manned by a female captain, our boat navigated through this enormous river, passing through fishermen, koi fish spas, The Cinnamon Island, Temples, Kovils, and even a juice bar. Madu River Safari is an adventurous journey that will let you explore the complete ecosystem of an enormous lake and its visiting codependents.
Next, I got on a tuk-tuk, the local transport there to Lunuganga, where Geoffery Bawa’s soul resides. The famous home cum estate of Sri Lanka’s much lauded architect Geoffrey Bawa, is almost like a rite of passage for architects. Located in Bentota, a few hours out of Colombo, Lunuganga is a mesmerizing place, a carefully orchestrated landscape, all light and space and beauty. The estate covered eight hectares spanning two hillocks and with a promontory onto Dedduwa Lake. It consisted of an old estate bungalow and had groves of listless rubber and other overgrown trees. Over the next forty years, this was slowly manipulated into the wonder that is Lunuganga today. Swathes of rubber trees were cut, indigenous trees and bushes were planted and avenues were planned, opening up the views to the lake and creating quiet restful places. Lunuganga, owned by the Geoffrey Bawa Trust today, runs as a boutique hotel offering six suites and one extraordinary garden. The trust has scrupulously maintained the place as it must have been when it was Bawa’s own house. A building which is so much a part of the landscape surrounding it, that it becomes difficult to separate the boundaries between built and nature. At Lunuganga, civilization is gently held back. Time slows down and what we are left with is a sense of calm and peace.
Bells are a feature at Lunuganga. Bawa placed them at various points of the estate, each with a distinct ring. Near his breakfast table, down by the lake, in the office, by the Blue pavilion, etc. This was to enable his staff to know exactly where he was when a particular bell was rung and to where they were being summoned. Other than that, there is no formal layout, no rigid geometry, or no rules of traditional rules of garden design. Instead, an elegant transition from terraces to groves of trees, from water meadows to hilltop vistas, you are seduced into thinking that it is all just one serendipitous organic growth.
Back at Sundara, the last meal was a spectacular Sri Lankan spread which was a feast for the soul. This was my first-time trying Sri Lankan food and one thing you should know about it is that no meal is complete without rice and curry. They make hundreds of curry varieties: chicken, fish, shrimp, carrot, beetroot or pumpkin—you name it. Apart from the rice, they serve their curries with their signature hoppers: egg or plain and even string, milk rice and parotis (flatbread).
RAPTUROUS OCEANS
It’s not every day that you can walk out of your room and slip right into the pool. Mosvold Villa in Ahangama gave me just that privilege. After driving for just over an hour from Sundara, I arrived in the rainy and gloomy Ahangama, but checking into the Founder’s Suite with a private pool lifted my spirits.
A seaside hotel and the flagship property of Mosvold, this ultra-luxurious space features sixteen bedrooms with direct beach access. Unlike Sundara by Mosvold, where the ocean was rather tumultuous, the waves here were calm and inviting.
On my first day, I took it easy as as the rain poured down. I strolled around the expansive hotel grounds and enjoyed a few cocktails at the poolside bar. On day two, the hotel concierge helped me plan a day trip to Galle, filled with history and culture. Sri Lanka has many remnants of Portuguese influence. As I wandered through the old Portuguese streets, I visited the heritage museum, which is filled with collectibles from their past, as well as the marine museum, showcasing their maritime history. I also stopped by the Lanka Living Gallery to admire contemporary Sri Lankan art, checked out Stick No Bills for vintage posters, and indulged in some homemade ice cream at the charming Dairy King. To catch the sunset, I walked along the coast, gazing at the horizon while reflecting on the rich history left behind by the Portuguese at the Fort.
Galle Fort Hotel, a 300-year-old Dutch mansion transformed into a heritage hotel, is an iconic landmark in Galle. Located in a vibrant neighbourhood filled with lively bars, the hotel sets itself apart with Ropewalk, a specialty arrack bar known for its exceptional cocktails.
Arrack is a traditional Sri Lankan spirit made by fermenting the sap of coconut flowers. The name, Ropewalk comes from the traditional method of collecting toddy from coconut flowers, where harvesters traverse a rope stretched between two coconut trees to extract the sap. Here for dinner, I enjoyed a curated experience that paired various types of arrack with complementary dishes.
Ropewalk has been rated the best bar in Sri Lanka, and it’s easy to see why, given the impressive selection of around seventy-three types of arrack. I sampled many types, from those distilled in stainless steel to double-distilled options and even some of the most premium and aged varieties. Sitting by the poolside, I explored this entire arrack world with Samara Jacob, who manages the bar experiences at the hotel. Together, we discussed the unique notes of arrack and how the Sri Lankan market is striving to promote this distinctive spirit within the alcohol and beverage industry.
FREE AND WILD
After enjoying the sun, sand, and a touch of history, I prepared myself for the next leg of my journey, which promised to be a vastly different experience due to the country’sdiverse landscapes. One of the most enchanting aspects of Sri Lanka is how seamlessly one can transition from one unique experience to another. My next destination was The Warden’s House in Yala, a national park renowned for sightings of leopards (I saw two), elephants on the highway, and an impressive variety of bird species. The Warden’s House is situated on a sprawling seven-acre estate, offering breathtaking views of the Manek River. Upon reaching the property, I was greeted by Claire Holman, the general manager, who was always attentive and accommodating throughout my stay at the lodge. Great attention has been given to every detail at this property, from the bottomlessclassic safari drink (Gin & Tonic) to the excellent in-house naturalists and delightful food.
The four suites are named after different national parks in Sri Lanka: Kumana, Yala, Horton Plains, and Wilpattu. I stayed in the Wilpattu suite, which pays homage to the wilderness of Sri Lanka’s northwest coast and the cultural legacy of the indigenous Veddas. The de?cor featured vintage photos of the Palace of Kuveni, the Vedda queen who ruled over the land in antiquity, along with sweeping landscapes of the Villus, taking your imagination to the land of lakes. Before starting the safari adventure, Kelum, the naturalist, walked me to the Menik River right after breakfast. Under the bright sun, the cold water of the river felt refreshing, sweeping away all my worries. Initially, I was apprehensive about going into the water. As a city girl, I was not accustomed to nature, but standing by the water forced me to confront my fears. I sat in the chilly, gushing water while fish nibbled at my skin, inviting me to embrace nature. But this was just a teaser for what was in store next: the ultimate adventure at Yala National Park. On the way to Block 5 of the park, easily accessible from the property and not well known to many, we encountered elephants just inches from our jeep, as if asking for road tax for their land. The friendliest of them was named Raju, who stood there cross-legged with his tail swishing side to side.
Having done a few safaris in India, I can say that every safari is special, but this experience left me speechless. We spotted a grey hornbill, an oriental scops owl, a family of elephants, a playful herd of deer, a wild boar searching for food, and a mugger crocodile. This was all before we spotted the two big cats. We parked our jeep near a waterhole and saw one leopard sitting by a tree, eyeing a nearby peacock. It moved around before appearing again by the same spot, giving us one last look. As the day drew to a close it started to rain and we were ready to leave, however, Kelum decided to take one last detour, and thank goodness he did! That’s when we saw another leopard, hiding behind a dense bush, perfectly camouflaged.
AZURE LUXURY
For my final stop, I journeyed up the mountains to experience Thotalagala, a marvel of restoration. This nineteenth-century tea planter’s bungalow has been revived and now has seven themed suites, each inspired by personalities who significantly contributed to the history of Uva Province—one of Sri Lanka’s premier tea-growing regions and arguably the finest in the world.
Thotalagala is nestled within twenty acres of lush lawns and patana grass, offering breathtaking views from its vantage point. Behind the bungalow, a vast 4,000-hectare tea plantation carpets the Haputale hills, extending up to Lipton’s Seat, which sits 1,500 feet above sea level, and stretches over to the Bandarawela side of the mountain. Renowned for its luxury, Thotalagala stands as one of the most exclusive addresses in Sri Lanka’s mountains where a butler takes care of all your needs just like in the colonial times. The property features one of the country’s best infinity swimming pools, a teak-panelled cigar room, and immersive experiences in the nearby tea gardens. I spent my time luxuriating on the lawns, absorbing uninterrupted views of a country that had quickly won my heart. Meals were a delight: breakfast, lunch, and high tea were served outdoors, while dinner was enjoyed inside as the temperature dropped.
The highlight of my stay was a guided tour through the lush tea estates, where I gained insights into the intricate tea-picking process. As the sun set, I spent serene evenings by the fire, reflecting on my journey, surrounded by the tranquil beauty of the hills. Thotalagala, with its serene charm and rich heritage, was the perfect conclusion to my adventure—a place where I made unforgettable memories.
Words Hansika Lohani
Date 24.01.2025