Aditi Chand referred to herself as an 'accidental entrepreneur' when she first started her label, Tilfi Banaras. A brand born out of numerous conversations with artists in Banaras, her husband's hometown. However, over the years, Aditi has not only proven to be a custodian of culture and craft but also a formidable force. Tilfi Banaras stands as a live and growing testament to that.
Their new collection draws inspiration from the artistic sensibilities of the Rococo period and the heritage of Banarasi craftsmanship. It represents a fusion of two heritage art forms and a play of silhouettes, blending the delicate Rococo pastel palette with intricate Banarasi zari weaves and aari embroideries. This combination brings together different cultures and time periods, resulting in a unique collection that challenges perceptions of time and evokes a sense of a bygone era in the present. We're in conversation with Aditi Chand, CEO and Co-founder of Tilfi Banaras, to learn more.
Your upcoming collection, Quarter to Time, seems to draw inspiration from the Rococo period and the heritage of Banarasi craftsmanship. Can you tell us more about the inspiration behind merging these two distinct art forms?
We were inspired by the Rococo style’s playful inspiration from nature–it has a unique quality in that it is naturalistic and whimsical at the same time, and exceptionally ornate and visually light-hearted yet theatrical. While Rococo and Banarasi artistries are different, we found deep synergies between them and intertwined them in our Quarter to Time collection. This collection introduces new motifs to the Banarasi brocade–artfully combining shapes, patterns, and structures which are found in both Rococo art, fashion, architecture, and in heritage Banarasi textile art, in complete harmony. Additionally, the collection marries silhouettes that have defined feminine wardrobes across diverse cultures and eras. Specifically, women’s silhouettes during the French Rococo period featured corseted bodices, wide necklines, frills, laces, and exaggerated sleeves. In Quarter to Time, we seamlessly meld all these elements with classical Indian drapes and attire.
The use of pastel palettes from the Rococo era and intricate Banarasi zari weaves in your collection is a unique combination. Could you explain your design process behind doing the same?
The colour palette is synonymous with the hues found in Rococo art–light tones, pastels, and gilding. While it does appear to be a deliberate departure from the quintessential Banarasi colors, which are often characterized by their vibrancy and bold choices, it is part of our attempt to (re)introduce a fresh perspective to Banarasi textiles, one that exudes a contemporary allure while staying true to our heritage. The design process behind this collection entailed choosing colours and creating patterns and textures which had a very light-hearted, soft, and enchanted quality about them. A lot of period art from the Rococo era were elements of inspiration, from the resplendent silks and graceful colouring seen in Watteau’s work to the pastel moldings with gilding seen in architecture. An amalgamation of these features is what has resulted in the collection’s interplay of pastels and glistening zari weaves on lustrous pure satin, katan, and tissue silk garments.
Your collection incorporates Banarasi Phekwa and Vasket art in weaving zari patterns reminiscent of Rococo's architectural elements and botanical motifs in classic Kadhua and Meenakari weaves. What challenges did you face in ensuring the authenticity and quality of these traditional craftsmanship techniques?
Incorporating different techniques across our weaving repertoire in our Quarter to Time collection was a meticulous endeavor, rooted in preserving the authenticity and quality of Banaras’ revered craftsmanship, and requiring a delicate balance between a foreign inspiration and a traditional craft. Upholding the legacy of these traditions while infusing them with the whimsy of Rococo artistry posed a challenge, but one we embraced.
Just as in all our other collections, true artistry lies in selecting the right techniques to translate Rococo's architectural elements and botanical motifs onto the textile, emphasizing patterns and motifs to achieve the desired result—which pattern should be rendered in Banarasi Phekwa, which ones in Zari Vasket, where must one use kadhua or meenakari and which piece would shine with the complexity of a Rangkat? This nuanced approach comes only from experience and an intimate understanding of the craft.
Our artisans, masters in their craft, faced the challenge with precision and passion, ensuring each pattern and motif met the highest standards of authenticity and finesse. Every piece in the collection is a testament to their expertise, ensuring that the essence of these traditional techniques shines through in seamless harmony with the inspiration, elevating each creation to the epitome of luxury.
What do you wish for the audience to take away from the series?
At Tilfi, it is our constant pursuit to subtly build upon our heritage Banarasi weaving repertoire through classical and innovative textile creations. With our new collections and campaigns, we strive to leave the audience with craftsmanship and storytelling that spark wonder and resonate deeply, offering a window into new and old artistries, themes, and concepts that have inspired creativity across various realms of art. We wish for every encounter with a Tilfi textile to ignite a profound appreciation for the meticulous craft of Banarasi handloom weaving and enable an exploration of new dimensions in artisanal creativity and storytelling.
What should the fashion of now look like?
The fashion of today should capture deliberate and informed choices. In this age of discerning consumers, it's not merely about what we wear, but the narrative and values we adorn. Fashion must resonate on a profound level with the individual, it should embody a narrative, carry the weight of provenance, and showcase the skill of craftsmanship. In an era advocating for intelligent, conscious consumption, our choices in fashion should reflect not just our tastes but our values—embracing the artistry of the craftsman, honoring tradition, and fostering sustainability.
Words Hansika Lohani
Date 05.10.2023