Designer Shahab Durazi believes in telling narratives that are inspiring and worthy. His train of thought is simple and displays his dedication for the craft — he doesn’t believe in any form of mediocrity or complacency in the creative space, if he’s convinced the story holds the complete attention of his target audience, only then he’s willing to put up a show. A designer who has categorically avoided being on the ramp, recently made his return after a long hiatus of twelve years. We’re in conversation with him as he tells us about the overarching theme of nostalgia that surrounds his capsule collection and who compelled him to be back on the ramp at the recently concluded fashion week.
What led you back to the ramp after such a long hiatus?
The credit for my return must go to Mr. Sunil Sethi, who has been persistently asking me to showcase my work as he feels it’s imperative the younger generation of designers, stylists, models, et cetera, should see and understand the craft of Shahab Durazi. Having said that, I must say fellow designers, my contemporaries like Tarun, Rohit, Rajesh Pratap, Suneet, Anamika, and many more, have over the years, told me I must put my work out there as it deserves to be seen on a large platform. Even models, stylists, photographers, choreographers have said so. Special mention must be made of my daughters Amaesha and Aashyan who, over the years, have goaded me to show my work and increase the visibility of my brand.
Take us through your inspiration for the collection.
I presented a retrospective of my label Shahab Durazi. The capsule collection is a radical reflection of the brand, dating back to around ten years. Nostalgia is the overarching theme — borrowed mainly from the 40s and 50s vintage chic era, which inspire a lot of details like pristine collars and cuffs from the English dandy dress code, quilted cummerbunds, bows embellished with pearls and silk ribbons, et cetera. I have an affinity for sticking to neutral tones, mainly black, in my personal style as well as in my work, which I haven’t budged from till date. This collection heroes the mystery of black, juxtaposed with white, cream, bone, ecru, dove, slate and silver.
We also leaned into the brand’s various couture strengths, favourably used in the past, which I believe are a great vehicle of relevance for some of the younger audiences who may not entirely be aware of our body of work. Art from the Renaissance and Rococo movements are also a piece of history that inspire the collection in the form of large French motifs. Overall, the capsule will endorse slow fashion and the relevance of timelessness to defy the concept of trends and transcend season, gender and genre. In simpler terms, it is classic couture with contemporary nuances.
What did your creative process look like?
Returning to the runway after twelve years was no easy feat. My work hasn’t been viewed by the masses in quite a while so the collection I showcased will speak for itself, although who wears it will surely impact the translation. I leaned on historic events and time periods during the design process to convey ‘nostalgia’ as the focus of the collection, so certain pieces feature designs from French art movements and borrow from pristine English menswear of the 40s. We made sure the collection was strong on tailoring and used couture techniques to perfect balance and proportion. Embellishments of all sorts feature throughout, some create illusion, some add texture. You will see detailed floral filigree work as a prominent design element, along with intricate pearl patterns and ornate beadwork to add an edge to the otherwise delicate textiles used throughout. The collection is an expression of the unique craft that Shahab Durazi stands for.
Did you face any difficulties getting back to the groove of creating a production?
In terms of challenges, there are several parts to this. Firstly, this collection was a retrospective. FDCI wanted me to show pieces from the past that were of great relevance when they were showcased and are equally relevant in today’s fashion scene. So, I borrowed a lot from the strengths that the brand has stood for over the last thirty five years, and incorporated those in this collection that is still very classic but contemporary. This was a big challenge because you are trying to put together something that borrows a lot from the past but has to have contemporary relevance.
The second was the platform on which I was presenting. I have only done solo shows before, so this is the very first time I have been part of a fashion week, and especially the biggest fashion extravaganza of the country, Lakme Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI. The other big challenge was not having the privilege of time. I confirmed this show just a couple of months ago. I think this is the shortest time span within which I have done a collection. But having said that, I also feel it’s one of my strongest collections to date. I had to set up a stage, a ramp, and set design in less than three hours, where in the past, I have had banquet halls seventy-two hours before the show. So putting together something that is as spectacular as you can make it in such a short time span is very challenging.
What should the fashion of now look like?
My fashion aesthetic, as well as sensibilities, are vintage, nostalgic, that attempt to address the ever-evolving role of style and elegance. I have and will stay true to this timelessness in clothing that is desired by many and is the true essence of what fashion is. Though I keep my distance from trends, I am able to mold our own standards in the modern industry, owing to our past, which we can always turn to for inspiration. Structural excellence and an ageless appeal are what we strive for at Shahab Durazi.
Social media has changed the way we perceive fashion, and most of the time it’s good, but sometimes content is questionable as there’s a larger emphasis on brand building and the product is sidelined. Slow fashion has lost out in this fast-paced race and my intent with this presentation was to reinforce the relevance of slow fashion, timelessness and the quality of ideas. It’s about realising that there is timelessness to clothing that is far beyond trends.
Finally, what’s keeping you busy right now?
Well my showcase at Lakme Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI was only the beginning, I am working on some more exciting things. At the moment, I don’t have the luxury to give details of those projects, but rest assured if all goes as planned, you will soon hear about it.
Text Unnati Saini
Date 03-11-2022